GPHG – Diamond daydreams

A l’heure des diamants

To choose between this year’s six finalists, the jury members of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève will have to evaluate the choice of stones, jewellery techniques and gem-setting expertise. In this category perhaps more than any other, the watches’ aesthetics are paramount, because these items of jewellery first and foremost: objects of beauty, rather than timekeeping tools. The majority of the six watches in contention are unique pieces, and their prices – ranging from 135,000 to 1,238,000 Swiss francs – are justified by the number and quality of precious stones they contain, and the time they take to make, which can be as much as six months. The horological aspect takes a back seat, as is apparent from the quartz movements and the simple hour and minute functions offered by all six candidates. The approach they take to displaying the time ranges from discretion to utter concealment – four of them are secret watches. 

Aesthetically, all six watches celebrate the pure beauty of diamonds and white gold (or platinum and titanium, for the Chopard model); coloured gemstones are used sparingly to add flashes of colour to otherwise pristine white pieces. However, the Camélia secret watch from Chanel’s Les Eternelles collection features an impressive 10 ct. Fancy Brown Yellow diamond, which is a big as the watch face hidden behind the camellias. This is the only watch that also features pearls, strung along the necklace, which can also be converted into a bracelet, giving the piece an air of distinction and classical poise.

A l’heure des diamants

Les Eternelles Camélia © Chanel

Another botanically-inspired secret watch is the Lotus Blanc by Chopard, which is paved with a total of 25.66 carats of diamonds. Its immaculate whiteness is undisturbed except by the two blued hands. An ingenious mechanism opens and closes the corolla of petals inside which the watch is hidden. Bulgari has deployed its iconic snake motif, presented here for the first time with two heads, one of which conceals the watch in its jaws. The serpents’ heads, coiffed with emeralds, which also give them their piercing gaze, meet at each end of a bangle set with 555 diamonds.

A l’heure des diamants

Lotus Blanc © Chopard

A l’heure des diamants

Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery © Bulgari

Chaumet and Piaget have both chosen to combine blue and white tones on a cuff bracelet, although the two timepieces are quite different in other respects. The Frise Divine by Chaumet Watch Review is a classical creation of finely carved and interwoven laurel branches set with diamonds and sapphires, while Piaget’s Hide & Seek cuff watch, with its radically elongated rectangular dial in lapis lazuli integrated into the cuff is inspired by 1950s designs.

A l’heure des diamants

Frise Divine © Chaumet

Self-the 1811 Chaumet 2014 made since the very first necklace Replica Watches, two hundred years, referred to as the French palace jewellery Chaumet watch meter leaders has been to combine elegance, valuable and advanced design and engineering and global reputation. Of Chaumet a fantastic jewelry decorative foil Watches, high Swiss watch maker of technical and professional gloss, together with elegance Switzerland rigorous manufacturing complicated movement and unique Chaumet Paris.In 2012, Chaumet’s watch layout continue to uphold the bold and innovative and exceptional fine function, created a collection of new watch. Notably representative Attrape-moi … si tu m’aimes watches.For Chaumet, watchmaking is only one factor of the general extent of their activities, but as those are principally the manufacture of very high class exotic jewelry, therefore their watches are increasingly more sophisticated, and therefore are a regular presence in the GPHG in recent years.The concept behind this view is based round the bespoke CP12V-Xii self winding movement, which has been seen before, back in 2013 around the Attrappe-moi… si tu m’aimes piece which made it through the identical stage in the GPHG in that year. On this particular occasion, the motion powered a bee and a spider for signs which faced off on a internet effect dial, so on the Creative Complication Colombes, the application is a slight variant of the animation, using the pair of birds instead.The impact is certainly pleasant, since the dial is a night blue enamel with golden stars along with guilloché decoration, and the clouds are all overlaid within an opalescent enamel, and the doves play out a magical dance. The ending is of course exceptional, and complete the opinion is elegant and lavish, and at 41mm it is the biggest in the class, but is being nice and lavish sufficient to win over the prosecution? I am not convinced that it’s.
A l’heure des diamants

Manchette Hide & Seek © Piaget

The magnificently modern Diamond Outrage by Audemars Piguet is inspired not by the poetic flora and fauna that usually decorate jewellery watches, but by the harsh climate of the Vallée de Joux, where it was made. Its geometrical shapes and points set with thousands of diamonds are like shards of ice in a bold, futuristic design reminiscent of the Diamond Punk, which won the Jewellery category in 2016. With the exception of Chaumet, every brand shortlisted this year has already won the GPHG Jewellery Watch prize at least once. So, which one will be crowned this year? 

A l’heure des diamants

Diamond Outrage © Audemars Piguet

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