Scream!Scream!Scream!We all scream for steel Pateks! Even a casual watch enthusiast will likely recognize the importance of a Baselworld where Swiss Patek Philippe launched two new complicated steel watches. We showed you the new 5960 annual calendar chronograph here,whereas now it’s time to check out my favorite of this new duo from Patek, the 5990 Nautilus. Combining the chronograph capability of the 5980 with the dual time zone complication of the 5164A Aquanaut,from one of the biggest names in watchmaking the 5990 offers two sporting complications in an attractive and versatile package.
Still based around the 40.5 mm iconic case design that the Nautilus is known for, the 5990 uses every bit of its distinctive shape to enhance the user interface of the complications. Sure, the chronograph relies on the standard pushers that flank the screw down crown, but the buttons to advance or retreat the dual time zone feature are integrated into the left side of the case.In fact,that familiar Nautilus is two buttons.With each press of the button,The travel hand jumps can easily be set to the local time in your destination, or simply hidden beneath the main hour hand when you don’t need to track a second time zone.
Apart from the easy-to-use controls and distinctive hand design, you can get separate day/night indications for both timezones and a date display at twelve o’clock as well. The chronograph’s 60 minute totalizer is placed at six and the dial promotes excellent legibility for all of the displays, and a greater balance than you might expect for such a complicated watch. The dial itself is black at the edges but fades to a warmer grey tone in the center. With white gold applied markers and a horizontal striping design, the dial blends nicely with the multifaceted case design of the Nautilus.
What’s more,the steel Nautilus bracelet is easily one of the most impressive bracelets which I’ve ever seen in person. Beautifully finished with polished edges, brushed sides and polished mirror-like center links,perfectly with the mixed finishing of the case, the bracelet works really completes the steel aesthetic of the 5990. Beautifully tapered down to its fold over clasp, as much as I like the look of an Aquanaut on Patek’s composite strap, the 5990 just looks amazing on its bracelet.
With both a chronograph and a dual time feature, the 5990 makes about as strong a case for practical versatility as is possible from a $57,300 USD watch. Really though, the price shouldn’t be surprising and the 5990 will almost certainly be a very popular watch for Patek in the coming years and will likely make it’s way onto many a watchnerd’s grail list. The 5990, along with it’s other new steel sibling the 5960, show that Patek Philippe is serious about their steel-watch offerings and,even though what we predict will be a very limited supply of both of these new models, is willing to produce watches with true mass-market and enthusiast appeal.