Jaquet Droz Watch is one of the interesting watchmakers borne out of the Swatch Group some years ago making watches which are more focused on design and aesthetics than the movements. We liked them for their traditional design techniques and aesthetics. Like their use of enamel, of onyx and stone dials. Truth be told, they are no slouches in the movement department, and have almost always used F. Piguet movements. This year’s Baselworld 2016, for the first time, they added a complication to the Grande Seconde collection in the form of the new Jacquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time. The two time zones is a hint at the founder Pierre Jaquet-Droz’s reputation as a great traveler.
Based on the emblematic Grande Second collection, with the two off-centered dials, slightly overlapping to make a figure of eight, the new Jaquet Droz Grande Second Dual time is fitted with a new developed movement. The upper dial displays local time, and the lower seconds dial, off centered at 6 o’clock doubles up with an hours and minutes dial giving reference time…which can be set to GMT or home time.
The upper dial shows local time and uses roman numerals. The lower, larger dial shows the reference time, which can be set to home time or GMT or any other time, and also concentric with the seconds hands and a date hand. Shown in this photograph is the silver opaline dial. The blue arabic 24 hour markers for the reference time makes a nice aesthetic contrast to the red 31 and the other black markings. The Roman numerals on the upper counter and the Arabic numerals on the lower are complementary, and pleasing to look at while providing the essential distinction between local and reference time. Legibility is clear, and it is easy to distinguish the local time from the reference time.
The new movement is the Jaquet Droz Mens Watch 2663H24, self-winding mechanical movement. Equipped with a silicon balance spring and pallet horns, double barrel, flat bridges, 18-carat red gold oscillating weight, it has a power reserve of 65 hours and running at 28,800 bph. Movement finishing on initial examination is quite nice.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time is available in 18k red gold with an ivory double level grand feu enamel dial, in stainless steel with a black onyx dial with 18k white gold white gold applied rings, and in stainless steel with a silver opaline dial with applied ring. Case size is 43mm in diameter and rather comfortable on the wrist under a dress shirt.