Meet the Breguet Classique 5177 in a Blue Grand Feu Enamel Dial review

  • Goodrick
  • June 18, 2020
  • Comments Off on Meet the Breguet Classique 5177 in a Blue Grand Feu Enamel Dial review

Breguet has unveiled a Classique 5517 fronted with a dazzling grand feu enamel dial in so-called Breguet blue — a color achieved by re-creating the color of the watchmaker’s symbolic blued steel hands.
The Breguet Classique, among the very simple from the manufacture’s portfolio, is inspired by 18th-century pocketwatches made by brand founder and namesake Abraham-Louis Breguet, which stood out among the”baroque exuberance” (to use Breguet’s words) of other timepieces of that age. This is the very first in the set to feature a blue dial in grand feu enamel — a material characterized by the kiln-firing of its own pigments in temperatures exceeding 800 degrees Celsius (hence,”grand feu,” or”large fire”). This particular shade of blue, arrived at after extensive research to make sure its stability during shooting, mimics that of Breguet’s classically shaped palms, which is also wrought by a delicately controlled firing process.

Breguet blue

The open-tipped hands on this version, however, are made of rhodium-plated steel for legibility against the deep blue encounter, while the Arabic numerals, diamonds, stars, and fleur-de-lis on the chapter ring silvered, and larger in size than those of previous Classique models, also from the service of larger readability. The numerals at the trapezoidal date aperture at 3 o’clock are executed in the exact same procedure as the hour numerals (both utilize calligraphy used by Abraham-Louis Breguet himself to the No. 15 pocketwatch out of 1787) and the Breguet“secret touch” appears in enamel relief at 6 o’clock.
The event of the Classique 5177 is made of 18k white gold and measures that a relatively modest 38 mm in diameter. It features the finely fluted caseband which has become a hallmark of the set and attaches to a leather strap by way of welded, curved lugs and stable screw hooks.
The movement unites modern technological advances, such as the use of silicon for its lever, escape wheel, and equilibrium spring, together with classical horological decorative arts, like chamfering, circular graining, brushing, and côtes de Genève on the plates and bridges, and wheel forms reminiscent of those used by the founder in his overdue 18th-century calibers.
The 18k gold winding rotor — visible, together with other components, via a transparent sapphire caseback — has been engraved by hand on a rose engine, and every caseback comes with an engraved individual number. The blue alligator strap harmonizes with all the dial and closes with a white-gold pin buckle. The cost is CHF23,100.